B20 2130cc

[lukeball]

I decided to swap out my B16 for a B20, and I picked up a used B20 bored to 92mm. I has the 8-bolt crank with standard rods and a B20F head that has mild intake porting. I am having trouble getting some answers in the U.S., so I thought I would ask on here. This is going to be a street engine only, and I was hoping to get some performance out of it, while keeping it very streetable and reliable. I would like to go for the best acceleration possible 0-100km/h with good low to mid-range power and some upper end. I am going to use a Weber DGES (Outlaw) 38/38 carb.

Options:

#1: Should I just rebuild, blueprint and balance the engine and install a D cam? Is this fairly satisfactory? Are there other cams that improve the power range without modifying the head? Like ones listed below?

or

#2: Buy a KG Stage 2 head, install the later M connecting rods, and go for a nice cam. I don't want anything too extreme, so I was thinking KG10, ENEM K16 or K17, TG 761, Tinus TT5. Or I just heard about Axelsson Engineering. Are their cams fairly nice maybe AXT72, AXT74 or AXT77?

There are so many cam options. Are many of them similar or do they each have good characteristics? Does anyone have experience with the ones listed above or would you recommend anything else?

Thanks.

[Arne]

Instead för a D-cam you can use a K-cam, it´s similar D-cam but with the power only up to 5000 rpm. You get lower fuel consumption with this cam. You can also use a electonic ignition type: Ignition 123. http://www.123ignition.nl/
You can even change the seal in the front end of the crankshaft to a rubber seal same model as it is in a B21 engine. On the rear side of the crankshaft you allready have the later model of rubber seal. If not you can take it from a B21 engine.

[lukeball]

Thank you Arne. I already have electronic igniton from the '75 B20. It uses an external Bosch unit. I was also going to upgrade the seals. I decided to get the head ported and I am going to use a Schneider (U.S) 274F cam.

[Torbo]

Thats sounds good! Higher lift than D and K kam and good duration.
Original valvespring?
Lifters?
Kompression?
Nice if you give us more details here, as this is interesting....

[lukeball]

As far as porting goes, each person has a different method. I am trying to get some more details. One person welds up the ports to increase air velocity and flow with stock size 44/35 valves, but he only does heads for complete motors. The other guy builds race heads with extensive porting and 46/38mm valves, but wants $2000 for a head. I currently contacting the third person, who has a custom cam grind in a street engine has pulls crazy hard, yet provides good gas mileage. He also uses the Weber 38/38, so I am hopefully going with his cam and head.

I am thinking maybe 10:1 compression ratio. I am going to use the Isky double valve springs, high rev kit with lifters and moly pushrods. I purchased the M rods. I am also going to use alloy timing gears.

Where can you buy offset B20 camshaft keys? Do you have a link? I am thinking 4 degrees advanced with I go with the Schneider 274F.

[mekomaskin]

Thr M-tods are strong, but they are also heavy.
If you want a high rev engine, you want pistons and rods to be as light as possible.

[Torbo]

Compression 10:1 sounds good to me. I use 10,5:1 in my Amazon, and i was a little two hewy. I had to stop the engine with the clutch, because I had IEK electrical idle jets. The plot Cartagia's downfall a big problem, but all over 10:1 has little or no purpose!
Then you can optimise ignition to achieve good combustion pressure where it works best.
Weber 38/38 sounds good too... I was happy with 32/36 and 36/36 Weber.


I bought my wedge at Pedersen Racing number two, I will have in my Volvo Duett too!
http://www.pedersens-racing.no/bil/
Maybe VP Auto Parts in Sweden also? KG Trimning has surely!
If you get stuck, I can buy and send to you? It costs approx. $ 12.

My tread: http://forum.pvklubben.no/viewtopic.php ... &start=180
Some usefull?
Back to the engine in Volvo Duett. Valve controllers are turned and adapted to new valve seats, which were not before. Thus I will spare engine soot damage. As far as I can see, this is the main problem with older Volvo engines until 1969, when B20 came with ventildeflektorer.
Much of soot in the channels can halve the area of ​​the inlet and eksosknanalene, after a few years. In addition, soot build up on valves, so that they look like a "jultere" when disassembled. Thus, they are also a good air brakes. in addition, the valve seats have a sotlag, especially exhaust seats, which causes the valve and the seat is not completely in contact, and exhaust valves and ev. t seats will easily burn and become leaky due to deficiencies cooling.
On top of the whole thing is that here, the engines have the largest oil consumption through v. controls. And with more or less "perfume".
This is my summary, but if others have detected problems down "in line", it is also interesting.
Crank and frame store's not a big problem if the oil pressure is fine and the engine has good sound and walk away?
But crank and frame bearings are easy to replace, even without the engine removed. The PV / Duett with B16 is the most cramped to get out sump, but it goes. Note the temperature sensor in the rear of B16, as it can be clamped to the battery.

This is one of the reasons why I take a cylinder head job. Crank and frame store was checked when I had the sump, and they were well within target. But oil pump was changed to B20-Amazon-pump - absolutely identical, but with minimal wear. In Amarone I switched to B30 pump for better flow, when it doubled power.

So now the new cut the valvecontrols and place new deflectors.
There is a little tension in how the cylinders look like, but I hope and expect that it's fine?
Then wedge the cam gear in place to turn the cam 6-8 degrees up to get good bottom rails and good effect where I need power. "Boasts-hp" at high speed, I'm not interested in!
And they / it if still not believe in this "adventure" (the project) can read a bit on the links below here:

http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/ ... eeCam.html

http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/ ... eeCam.html
It turns out that "flat" chamber (modern) will provide high loads on the valve system and on the comb.
Example K-comb, which is modern and promises faster than D-comb, which is softer in the operation. The advantages of a K-comb, f.esk. environmental / emissions, will be eaten by the downside of wear, then it will be easier to "eat up" even.
It was exactly what I experienced at Amazon, K-comb held not many years! While D-cam goes --- yet ... - With the same fine walk ..
K-cam came and went, tired and sweaty, and this was it!
Also check the "page links", which provides many good ideas on kamprofiler and properties of various links.

[lukeball]

Torbo, thanks for all that information. I am going to read the websites later. Anyways, I couldn't find the woodruff keys listed on that website. Once you advanced the cam 4 degrees, where did it move the rpm to? Was max still around 6000rpm? As much as I like low and mid-range, it seems like I would stay between 2000-6000 in normal driving. With your setup, did the D cam pull fairly hard?

Will carbon deposits build up on Stainless Steel valves? I thought that if good petrol was used, there would be less deposits.

[Torbo]

Thanks the same, it was may be to much, bur you can look at that you like about it?

It (the key) is not so easy to find there at Pedersen, but I took a phone and speak with Pedersen him self ..
If you want I can call for you to ask them to send, I have to pay first, but we can talk about that later.
You were so nice and helped hlyshaug with eight fine lifters, so it's just nice to help out.
You can send me your adress on a PM or email me: tor@motor.no.
Or I can get your adress from hlyshaug?
How urgent is it?

When "the key" was forced the cam about 4-6 degrees, I get max power approx. 1000 r / min before/eralier, and better idle.
And about 10 + percent more horsepower around 1500 to 2000 rev / min. it is indicated. And there i is very importent, because the power is low from before.
Pedersen Racing could not just how much "the key" shift the cam, but it was found out from the top on experience.

Many say D-comb is old-fashioned, and it's probably true. K-comb and equivalent and Isky's probably better in many ways, but I'm a little unsure of the rapid opening time, and thus the risk of wear on the K-cam, as I experienced? But I do not know enough about this, but a colleague in the Amazon Club in Norway, which drives much of this meant that certain D-cam was better and kinder to the valve mechanism and gives the same effect. Perhaps a slightly poor emission, but it is enough minimal compared to V8's and other American cars.
And I like the good lift on the Iskys...
Sinse I dont know all the best sugestions you have to think on your own and take what you find best for you.
There are many experts here so you can hope other good answers elerl opinions about what is the best solution, so you can vlege itself.
All the people is not always agree with me?
You have already made a lot of knowledge, it sounds like it, and besides carefully!
Then it must be a good result!

[lukeball]

Well, so long with the 2130cc engine. I am going to need a new block, and I am not thinking about overboring, because it will prevent a rebuild in the future. I finished removing the rest of the pistons tonight, and here is what I found:


Someone forgot to replace the wrist-pin c-clip on #3. The wrist-pin deeply scored the wall about 2mm deep. The really sucks. So now, I am going to buy a 6-bolt B20 and then try to build it to about 160-170hp. I will keep you updated once I find a new block.

[Arne]

you can use the 8-bolt crank in a older B18/B20 engine, the crank is fit to all those engine.

[Torbo]

you can use the 8-bolt crank in a older B18/B20 engine, the crank is fit to all those engine.

Then you have to change the rods! Different rodbearings! !!!!!!
I used 8-bolts axle and M-rod in mine B20/20 93 mm bore...
suggestions:
Is is may be better to brush up the original rods fron 22 to 24, to matsh bigger piston from B21?
They are lighter an are strong enough, in this method you can also use 6-bolts crankshaft. .
Therfore you also can use more of the original.

[lukeball]

Torbo, I am actually thinking about staying with 89mm and not going to 92mm. I was thinking about a 6-bolt block, so that I could get the lighter and stronger rods. Also, original Volvo pistons are expensive and I can get custom forged ones for $535/set. That way I could use the 6-bolt rods and upgrade to 92mm.

[Torbo]

That sounds good. You can also use Mahle piston (Super quality - I used them) with 92 mm bore, and brotch up the original rods til 24 mm for pistonbolts.
I use 8-bolts crank, but it was not nessesary, I have heard. - have not tried.
KG trimning says that the original rods is good as, or better than, (heavy) and expensive M-rods. They (the original) can be polished to get them stronger, as you know...

I think you make good solutions anyway.... !

To day I have worked with mine VW camper. Brakes and driveshafts....
Outside it is - 15 degres now...
Yesterday I an a friend was working with to sylinderheads til B16, and a little bit with mine resereve B18 head.
Builded on (to) B20 valve seal on controlles...
And startet with the valves:
http://forum.pvklubben.no/viewtopic.php ... &start=195
Gooood solutions!

[Torbo]

Another thing: Do you know anything about Dodge Power Wagon? Price or so?
I´m looking for some... Se down in my tread:
http://forum.pvklubben.no/viewtopic.php ... &start=315